The language of the loom
A little knowledge.
A closer connection.
A plain-language companion to the names, materials, and techniques you will encounter. Open any term to explore its guide.
B
- Base fabric
- The underlying textile, considered separately from ornamental additions such as zari.
- Blouse piece
- Fabric supplied for a blouse. Check whether it is included in the advertised saree length.
- Body
- The main field of the saree, framed by its long borders and decorative end.
- Border
- The design running along a long edge of the saree.
- Butta / butti
- A motif repeated across a field; usage and spelling vary between makers.
C
- Colourfastness
- Resistance to colour change or transfer under particular conditions; do not assume one result covers all conditions.
D
- Drape
- How the fabric hangs and arranges itself when worn.
G
- Ganga–Jamuni
- In the cited Kanchipuram documentation, a saree with two differently coloured borders.
- Geographical indication (GI)
- Recognition of a product associated with a geographical origin; Kancheepuram Silk has a registered entry.
- Gopuram
- A temple-tower reference used in the region’s pattern vocabulary.
H
- Handloom
- A manually operated loom; ask about the actual production method of a piece.
- Handloom Mark
- The Textiles Committee’s identification scheme for handwoven products.
- Heirloom
- An object passed between generations, carrying personal or family significance.
J
- Jacquard
- A mechanism that controls patterned weaving. Its use alone does not determine whether weaving is hand-operated.
K
- Kancheepuram / Kanchipuram
- Alternative spellings of the Tamil Nadu weaving centre. The registered GI is named Kancheepuram Silk.
- Kanjeevaram / Kanjivaram
- Common alternative names used for Kanchipuram sarees; verify the actual weaving origin.
- Kanji
- Rice-starch preparation documented in the treatment of warp yarn.
- Korvai
- A technique that interlinks the body and contrasting border during weaving.
M
- Maanga
- A mango-shaped motif, often described as paisley in English.
- Mayilkan
- A peacock’s-eye motif in the documented Kanchipuram design vocabulary.
- Mulberry silk
- The type of silk traditionally used as the base material in Kanchipuram silk weaving.
P
- Pallu
- The decorative end of a saree, often displayed over the shoulder.
- Petni / pitni
- A specialised connection at the transition from the body to the pallu.
- Provenance
- The documented origin and history of an object.
R
- Rudraksham
- A motif referring to rudraksha beads.
S
W
Z
- Zari
- Metallic decorative thread. Ask separately about its core, metals, and coating.
Names and transliterations can vary by workshop and source. Ask your maker which name they use for the specific design.